Lodge review: Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools River Camp
Sept 18 2025
In the eyes of many local safari veterans, River Camp is one of the finest sites in the legendary Mana Pools section of the lower Zambezi.
Legendary? The three pools were left behind when the Kariba Dam was established in the 1950s, and the then vast Zambezi river’s flow throttled. Today it still spans from 200m in gorge to a few kilometres at its widest, with River Camp looking out – from under the Natal Mahogany tree canopies – across the river to the Zambezi escarpment.
Machaba Safaris’ River Camp is not a traditional lodge. Nor is it meant to be. It’s got the feel of a mobile camp, with every possible need taken care of. Starting with a donkey boiler giving hot water 24/7 (from experience elsewhere I’ve found that’s not always the case) and good French press coffee.
The experience continued on an upward trend with a brilliant dinner. Good I expected, but the level, out here in the challenging circumstances presented by hospitality in the remote wilderness, was bloody outstanding. Excuse my French, but I have to call it as I see it – for the process with operations like Machaba Safaris is sometimes so seamless, while coming across as casual, that guests don’t know the ‘back-story’.
The view behind the tent revealed itself the next morning, at about 5am with the morning chorus of birds (this was early September). The Mana Pools light is legendary, filtering through the forest of Mahogany, Apple Leaf and Winterthorn trees on the sandy floodplain.
Pulling up a chair at first light, and taking in the baboons, impala and eland is wildlife heaven enough. But to have elephant and buffalo eating around camp too is next level safari experience. Primordial comes to mind.
The beauty of Mana Pools has always been in its wildness. This is where I strongly urge those who are able, to take an early morning walk down the floodplain to one of the pans, and watch life play out in front of you.
After two or three nights here, I suggest heading up to Ingwe Camp*, a permanent camp of six tents overlooking a pan where all the action happens, every day in the dry season. I was initially reluctant to leave, wishing to spend more time at the river, but it was so worth it. It’s utterly different, maybe an hour’s game drive inland in a magnificent Mopane Cathedral of trees.
Let me know if this sort of experience interests you. Or maybe you’re looking for something, somewhere different. Ask me, after 25 years of photographing and writing stories around sub-Saharan Africa, you’ll probably find I’ve been there 🐾
*Ingwe Camp is reviewed in the previous post.
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