Lodge Review: Zimbabwe’s Ingwe Camp, Mana Pools
Today’s lodge review is an 80 minute flight from Harare, Zimbabwe, to the first of Machaba Safaris’ twin Mana Pools offerings – the inland Ingwe Camp, and River Camp. The latter is situated in what is regarded by many locals as one of the best locations on the river.
Ingwe Camp is 40 minutes drive inland – if not stopping for sightings , like we did for the wild dog pack in a riverbed – on Ingwe Pan. The camp is set in a mopane cathedral of trees, with all eight tents-on-decks fringing the pan in a semi-circle. It’s a magnificent setting.
Elephants, kudu, hippos and a variety of birdlife are present most of the day. Lions, leopards drink here often, with the former occasionally chasing hyenas through camp. While writing this, after first hearing lions roaring, I heard the elephants trumpeting loudly in the type of fashion that suggests it wasn’t scolding a youngster. The lions were harassing them..
At dinner last night a hyena came to drink from the birdbath maybe ten metres from us, then made its way to the kitchen where it was joined by two others. The chef didn’t blink an eye when he opened the door – he kept walking, they followed. He was still around to make brunch this morning.
Machaba Safaris’ trademark service – that I first encountered at Hwange’s Deteema Springs in 2021 – is found here; hospitable, relaxed yet professional with the lodge fittings and design ticking all the boxes.
Yesterday’s lunch of quinoa, bean and mango salad with beef koftes in a light tomato sauce speaks to the great meals Machaba puts out at both camps. Which I found necessary after a long day of shooting, propped up on elbows, waiting and occasionally eating dust – especially with the wild dog pack (adults and 11 pups) on the Chiruwe riverbed.
Predators are fairly prolific, with hyenas, maybe seeking safety, apparently coming almost nightly to drink from the bird bath, as they did tonight. Then popping past the kitchen on their way out again – the chef didn’t blink when he saw them as he opened the door and walked out. They followed.
Mopane woodland has a lower carrying capacity (of general game), but the mopane cathedrals are magnificent, home to bird specials and, with all the action in camp…well that’s what game drives are for. To explore, breathe it in, maybe driving down to the floodplain and the Zambezi river, which is another landscape altogether (see in my review of Mana River Camp).
Or, as we did, you could choose to spend time with Wild Dog, aka Painted Wolf / Dog – if they happen to be denning in the vicinity (which they often are).
*Meanwhile, I invite you to follow my links below for stories and reels. Intentionally a little rough at the edges, photojournalist style, capturing moments that describe the atmosphere of the specific destination.
Maybe join me on a photographic safari, or ask me to design your own.
https://www.instagram.com/african_storybook
https://www.facebook.com/AngusRoryOConnellBegg