Walking through nature, culture and a touch of cuisine.

As much as I enjoy walking through sub-Saharan Africa’s national parks and along deserted beaches on safari, I love hiking through South Africa’s bucolic, rural countryside. Here the quiet and alertness for wildlife is replaced by chatter, new friends and camaraderie, and by day three forgetting what day it is.

As context, I walked the original Camino Santiago 20 something years ago, from the French side of the Pyrenees to Santiago (where biblical legend has it St James’ bones are reputed to be buried). I journeyed as a pilgrim of sorts, and over 30 days delighted in every minute of the 800km.

If you have a yen for hiking, and have a gap this May or September, or next year, the Midlands Camino, in KwaZulu-Natal province, is one of South Africa’s finer walking holidays (dates and cost below). It lies in the shadow of the Drakensberg mountains, the route following farmlands, history and nature,.

I didn’t have the time to do the whole of this Midlands hike, but by day two, I was already back in that walking groove, with worries left at some or other farm gate. I was in my element.

I first travelled the back roads of the Midlands while covering our 1994 elections here as a young radio reporter for SAfm, and then over the years, based in Joburg and Cape Town, kept coming back to the Midlands Meander for more. This hike reminded me of its beauty, and revealed areas I hadn’t even thought of looking for.

That Kamberg valley in itself is magnificent. Walking through farms, being surprised by a lunch setup beneath Mt Kamberg itself (observed by a curious herd of cows), was magical.

The eccentric characters and profound history, framed by the Berg, friendly farmers and their sheepdogs, paints a beautiful picture of this neglected province, ironically probably the most attractive and diverse of all in this achingly beautiful country.

Tracy Woodland is the organiser in chief of the Midlands Camino. A boutique tour operator herself, she knows how to plan, with the finest details taken care of. Just getting the daily distance right between sleepover stops is a thing in itself.

*The ‘other’ beauty is that most of the proceeds go to the Midlands Hospice, which the provincial government has stopped funding. Chantal Oscroft Hathorn, the Hospice GM, is also involved in the hike.

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In a nutshell:

Website: www.midlandscamino.co.za

Hike 1. Karkloof to Nottingham Road

3 nights/ 4 days. 6-9 May 2026 or 30 September to 3 October

Cost: R8,400 pps a room throughout. R 9,900 per person in a single room throughout.

Hike 2. Nottingham Road to Dargle Valley

5 nights / 6 days. 4-9 October 2026

Cost: R 14,000 per person sharing a room throughout (R 16,500 per person in a single room)