At time of writing, veteran safari guide Kevin Johnston is busy putting the finishing touches to Babanango Game Reserve’s Trails Camp.

In the valley of the kings, between the traditional Zululand capital of Ulundi and the historic boer stronghold of Vryheid – and about 45 minutes from Isandlwana – Babanango is one of the newer wildlife kids on the bloc. A 20 000 hectare ‘Big Five’ destination on community-owned land, Babanango’s topography is dramatic, with high, increasingly rare mistbelt grasslands, broad savanna woodlands and the ravines found down the White Mfolozi river.

Babanango’s head guide, Johnston says he can’t get enough of the landscape and its walking potential.

With experience from Wilderness Safaris’ Duma Tau in Botswana, and managing lodges like The Outpost in the Kruger park’s Pafuri and Hluhluwe-iMfolozi’s Rhino Ridge, he knows the safari landscape inside and out. For a more objective approach, National Geographic voted it one of the ‘it’ places to visit in 2025.

While showing me where two black pachyderms (diceros bicornis) have been watching him while the camp is being built, he speaks of having their first clients signed up. Walking safaris have been gaining in popularity over the past two years, in keeping with the trending preference amongst visitors of getting closer to nature. With not a vehicle or person for miles around, surrounded by savanna, mountain and streams, I’m tempted to stay and walk further than we have.

I’ve just returned to KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) in my search of the ‘less-travelled’ for my safari clients and stories for my media clients. The pros of the province are literally too numerous to mention.

The Cons: As a destination, for a tourist, there really aren’t any. Although for a first-time visitor to South Africa, I’d probably advise against self-driving in KZN, because many provincial and municipal roads have not been maintained (and, from frequent experience, the N2 attracts ‘maniac’ drivers).

But when travelling with a reputable transfer company to one of the excellent lodges and guesthouses spread around the province, the driver-guide will both a) know the best route and b) how to negotiate said potholes when they come across them.

The Pros: KZN Tourism used to have a tagline: ‘Bush, Beach, Berg and Battlefields.’ No other province (no country, come to think of it) has such a spread of attractions, and thanks to this wickedly changing climate, they even produce wine in the cooler parts.

Kenya and Tanzania may have similar topography, but the distances are vast and the dollar costs often exorbitant.

That’s another positive. The value, especially when compared to my native Cape Town / Western Cape and the Greater Kruger National Park lowveld, is seriously good.

Thonga Beach Lodge, in the north of the province, is in my opinion hands-down the finest beach destination in South Africa (the larger and family-focused Umgazi River Bungalows on the eastern Cape’s Wild Coast runs it close). To add substance, it’s a highly successful joint venture between community and a private sector lodge operator.

Rhino Ridge Lodge in the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, is another. The park was the scene of Operation Rhino, where possibly South Africa’s foremost conservationist, the late Dr Ian Player (and his colleagues) in the 1960s set the scene for bringing the white rhino back from a threatened extinction precipitated by early colonial hunting activity that peaked before the First World War.

The battle of Isandlwana (and Rorke’s Drift), where the British Empire was defeated by Zulu King Cetshwayo’s battalions (with more Victoria Crosses given out than any battle previous) sets the scene for one of South Africa’s most compelling stories – as do the Anglo-Boer battlefields like Spioenkop a couple hours southwest. Naturally there is a profound culture of riveting battlefield storytelling among the Zulu and English guides here.

It’s this topography, and the attached biodiversity that always fascinated from afar, and it did not disappoint on a recent visit.

I was asked by some tour operators what the wildlife is like. While the five are their, of which I saw evidence, this isn’t for first-time safari-goers seeking a guarantee of the ‘big five’ on their first safari – yet. We saw a large herd of buffalo down on the White Mfolozi and followed an elephant bull’s tracks without luck as he sought out the herd – the terrain made it tricky. The white prehistoric grey beast which-shall-not-be-named (Ceratotherium simum) popped up between some of the numerous mountain aloes (aloe marlothii) that populate the hills. From Zulu Rock lodge we investigated a collared lioness with cubs – but didn’t want to get too close.

So to answer those operators asking about wildlife, Babanango GR is a spectacular reserve. The on site evidence of centuries-old human habitation, and of the farmers given subsidies to plant maize in the 1940s, just adds to the resurrection and ‘rewilding’ narrative.

The wildlife is busy reclaiming its space between three entirely different yet compelling five star lodges; the stunning, contemporary and sexy Madwaleni (below) on the White Mfolozi.

The deeply attractive Zulu Rock near the northern gate with horizon to horizon views over the reserve.

And from its position at the head of a valley, surrounded by naturally landscaped gardens, the family-oriented Valley Lodge.

Babanango is for guests seeking, privacy, wildlife and spatial exclusivity as part of their safari.

If it wasn’t for the failing provincial government, with its wildlife, warm water ocean, history and dominant mountain range, KwaZulu-Natal would easily be South Africa’s top performing destination. However that should not impact your choice of safari destination – KwaZulu-Natal, and that region known as Zululand in particular, are on the way back.

*Questions about Babanango and any other safari destinations in South and southern Africa are welcome. Booking requests may be made via the buttons on my website.

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